The Thousand-Year Journey: Dissecting the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage in Japan

The Kumano Kodo in Japan is a journey that continues long after the trail finishes for those who find meaning in walking. For more than a millennium, monarchs, monks, and common people have traveled along these historic pilgrimage routes, which are tucked away in the Kii Peninsula’s wooded highlands. You may now traverse the same peaceful towns, stop at the same shrines, and walk the same stone steps.

The Kumano Sanzan, which consists of the three magnificent shrines of Hongu Taisha, Hayatama Taisha, and Nachi Taisha, are in the center of the pilgrimage pathways. They collectively constitute the Kumano faith’s spiritual center. The chief shrine of more than 3,000 Kumano shrines in Japan is Hongu Taisha; the gods who are claimed to have descended to earth are enshrined at Hayatama Taisha; and Nachi Taisha is located next to Japan’s largest waterfall, which has long been regarded as a sacred location.

The trails are open year-round, but autumn is a favorite among travelers. The weather is cool and comfortable, and the mountains glow with red and gold leaves that make the walks even more memorable.

The Ohechi Route

The Ohechi follows the coastline, tying the Kumano Sanzan shrines to the vast Pacific. It’s not as busy as the inland trails, but that’s part of its charm. Along the way, you’ll find a dramatic view of the Pacific Ocean and the surrounding islands. You’ll also come across the rustic Sodo-Ji temple, housing history’s most famous calligraphy displays.

When it’s time for a break from trekking, sail around the Hikigawa river with the Ago-no-Watshi Ferry–a traditional boat that still connects both banks the way it has for generations. Be sure to check the available schedules and book the boat ride at least 2 days in advance.

The Iseji Route

Pilgrims from eastern Japan once walked the Iseji to connect the Ise Grand Shrine with the Kumano shrines. Today, the path winds through tea fields, fishing villages, and steep stone-paved climbs.

You’ll come across the Maruyama Senmaida rice terraces, where over a thousand fields spread across the hillside in patterns that shift beautifully with each season. By the coast rises Shishiiwa, a massive rock shaped like a lion’s head that seems to watch over travelers and the waves below. The Iseji Route feels rooted in everyday life, exhibiting how locals have lived alongside the pilgrimage for centuries.

The Nakahechi Route

The Nakahechi is the most traveled trail, and for good reason. Japanese emperors once made their way along this path, and modern hikers still follow in their footsteps. Along the way you can pause at the Toganoki-jaya Teahouse, a simple rest stop that recalls the days of old pilgrims.

The trail passes through Takahara Village, a mountainous town known for its bright terraced rice fields. Over several days through the Nakagechi Route, you’ll cross mountain passes, stop in small hot spring towns, and rest at family-run inns that have welcomed travelers for generations.

The Kohechi Route

The Kohechi is for those who crave challenge. Linking Koyasan, Japan’s sacred monastic center, with the Kumano shrines, it climbs over remote mountain passes where solitude and silence are the true companions. Get ready to traverse the Obako-tōge Pass, one of Kohechi’s most formidable climbs with jagged paths that test even seasoned hikers.

Not long after, the trail descends into the high-altitude Hatenashi settlement, also known as the “village in the sky” and celebrated among Japan’s 100 most beautiful villages. This ridge-top village is anchored by stone-paved paths, welcoming locals, fresh spring wells, and a misty atmosphere that feels untouched by time.

This trail may be demanding, but it’s also the most rewarding, and for many, that effort becomes part of the pilgrimage itself.

How to get there

The Kumano Kodo is accessible from both Osaka and Nagoya, making it easy to set out on any of the four paths. From Osaka, you can take the JR limited express from Shin-Osaka  Station down to the Kii Peninsula. The train makes several stops along the way, including Kii-Tanabe, Shirahama, Kushimoto, and Kii-Katsuura.

If you’re coming from Nagoya, the JR Nanki limited express runs along the eastern side of the peninsula. It stops at Owase, Kumano-shi, Shingu, and also connects to Kii-Katsuura.

For those planning to explore the region, consider getting an Ise-Kumano-Wakayama Area Pass. It’s valid for five days and covers both train and bus routes, making it easier to get around without worrying about multiple tickets.

Dual Pilgrim

If you’ve completed both Spain’s Camino de Santiago and the Kumano Kodo, you become recognized as a “Dual Pilgrim” for walking both UNESCO World Heritage World pilgrimage routes. It’s a reminder that these trails, though far apart, share a spirit of endurance and devotion.

There are various reasons why people visit the Kumano Kodo. There are those who aspire to be like monks and monarchs. The forests, the views of the mountains, or the sense of traveling back in time as you pass past villages and temples are what attract other people. And a lot of people just come to slow down and find peace on a path that allows you to go at your own speed.

To walk these routes is to enter a tradition that has been carried by innumerable individuals for more than a millennium. It’s also a chance to design your own path, one that you’ll remember long after you’ve left the mountains.